PROGRESSIVE DINNER IN ROME

Rome would be our first night on our anniversary trip to (in chronological, not geographic, order) Lazio, Campania, and Umbria.

On our visit 18 months ago, the entrance to HOTEL MONTE CENCI was in a small courtyard. Charming, yes. Stress inducing, yes. Access was via several narrow, one-way streets, and with one wrong turn, you had entered the zone … the zona traffico limitato … and a few weeks later, a ticket would arrive in the mail. The entrance has moved, and now, conveniently with one turn and one curve, is on a street-cum-piazza parking lot.

A couple of guys were hanging around across the street. Not skeevy, the concierge said, they help drivers find parking. By the time we checked-in, one of them had “reserved” a spot 50 yards away.

We didn’t dally in our room, but headed directly to GELATERIA GIOLITTI.

The streets were wet from a recent storm, puddles reflecting blue skies and white clouds, but our zigzagging path was without rain. For the first time we saw a line to get into the Pantheon, our favorite building in Rome. For the first time, we didn’t go inside. Did I ever tell you about the dome … coffered, the structure getting slimmer as it raises majestically above the marble interior, filled with lightweight pumice to reduce the heaviness of this unique roof. Genius! Like Brunelleschi’s dome on Santa Maria Fiori in Florence (and the Wright brothers’ flight), the technique has never been duplicated.

There’s always a line at Giolitti. The pressure is on, as you approach the gelatista who awaits your order. I splurged on 3 flavors. Always the sublime, lactic-love of fior di panna and the densely, intensely-flavored pistachio … plus another, today it was rich and satisfying love match of milk chocolate and hazelnut in gianduia. David picked almost granular, full-flavor cinnamon and fior di panna and the heavenly deliciousness of dark chocolate.

Many years ago, we happened upon MR. WINE, an enoteca near the Parliament. We’ve kept in touch with the family after MR. died and MRS. took over. But now it has been sold to Alessia, Cristina, and Adrian. The new name has been narrowed down to two choices (I planned to keep their confidence until they make a final determination … but a google search shows it’s still Mr. Wine). Yes, we had a tasting and bought some bottles.

We wandered back through Piazza Navona, which now seems more lively than our last couple of visits. The carousel was sparkling, aglow as the painted ponies posed, chestnuts were roasting, people lingered. No priests in Four Rivers fountain.

Back at the hotel, we enjoyed our welcome drink in rooftop wine bar. I took a photo, and sent it to Agat … who had been with us on our last visit.

We had a reservation at BA’GHETTO MILKY. But unbeknownst to us, they had recently opened BA’GHETTO … so we wandered to the new bistro across the street, thinking they had relocated. One look at the menu and we realized the difference, and decided to give it a try.

We started with a flavorful Roman artichoke (which I prefer to the often too-crispy Jewish style), and tasty hummus served with very good crusty bread. David ordered an Israeli wine from Hermon winery in the Golan Heights which had subtle fruit and nice minerality.

We ordered “Amatriciana” and a dairy-less “Carbonara.” The beef in the Amatriciana was too chewy and tough, but there was a semblance of similarity to the traditional guanciale version. However, the lack of pecorino in the Carbonara made it a pale comparison. The waiter had guaranteed we’d like it … and graciously took it back.

We asked for the check … put the remaining half bottle of wine in the brown bag for bread … and walked across the street to MILKY.

We ordered two Cacio e Pepe.

The dish wasn’t served in the frico … the crispy cheese “bowl” … but the dish was wonderful, with its smooth cheese-y and bright peppery combination on the thick pasta strands. For dessert, we enjoyed the luscious and rich chocolate cream-mousse.

Buona notte Roma.

TO BE CONTINUED … IN OLD NAPOLI

TOASTED ALMOND COCOA CAKE

1 cup almonds, toasted and finely ground
1–¼ cups flour
2 tsp. baking powder
Pinch of salt
3 eggs
¾ cup sugar
⅓ cup red wine
⅓ cup olive oil
1 oz. (2 Tbl.) cocoa powder
16 whole almonds AND 16 chocolate chips … for decoration

- Preheat the oven to 350° F (170° C). Grease a 9-inch round pan.
- In a small bowl, combine almonds, flour, baking powder, and salt.
- In a large mixing bowl, whip the eggs … and when they start to get foamy, stream in the sugar. Continue whipping until the mixture is thick and pale yellow.
- Stir in wine and olive oil … then fold in flour-nut mixture.
- Pour about ⅔ to ¾ of the batter into the prepared pan.
- Into the batter remaining in the bowl, stir in the cocoa.
- Spoon the cocoa batter onto the batter (it won’t cover the entire pan), then swirl gently with a knife.
- At the edge of the pan, place the whole almonds alternating with the chocolate chips.
- Bake for 25–30 minutes, until just done.
- Serve at any temperature.
Enjoy!