IN OLD NAPOLI
Everything you’ve heard about driving in Napoli is false. It’s worse.
Every muscle from the neck down is tight … eyes of the driver and passenger search in every direction … navigation announces turns that are complicated by scooters, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, cars, vans, trucks all moving to the beat of a different drummer.
We arrived at SuperGarage. Exhausted.
We knew we’d need to walk 300 meters to the hotel. Navigation said to turn right onto the street, then right at the intersection. But one of the guys in the garage said to turn right, then left. That sure was bad advice … taking us on a roundabout path (especially with Navigation never quite knowing where we were), twice as many steps as necessary. I hadn’t memorized the map, thinking, naïvely, it wouldn’t be too complicated. When we reached Via Toledo, I knew we were reasonably close … then we had to roll our suitcases up the narrow, cobblestone streets of the Spanish Quarter to Via Speranzella.
“There!” I pointed excitedly to the 2nd floor sign just ahead … “Hotel Il Convento” … in white lights.
Once settled into our room, it was time to eat. I joked that we should eat tapas … since we ate Neapolitan-style pizza in Barcelona. Kitty-corner from the hotel was a trattoria called ‘RRAU E TRADIZIONE, and we sat down at a table on the crowded outside patio.
We ordered mozzarella … a legendary ingredient from the nearby town of Caserta. But what was placed in front of us, draped in prosciutto, was hard and dry and inedible. The Linda was forced to return it. The waiter whisked them away, and a moment later, proudly brought another 2 portions. Another cut, another … baseball. My thought bubble was “You think non-locals don’t know the difference.” It was taken away, untouched.
The bread was great … golden, crispy crust with irregular air bubbles inside.
We love the wines of Campania … falanghina, fiano, Greco di Tufo … so were looking forward to drinking some near the source. David ordered a Lacryma Cristi del Vesuvio, a 2018 DOP from Fontana Cupa. Minerally and light, it was an excellent pick with our seafood.
My spaghetti vongole was excellent. Alas, the larger clams are a thing of the past, but the dish was delicious with a generous amount of olive oil that gave it a smooth silkiness (silky smoothness?). And perfect for scarpetta … bread soaking up the remaining juices. David had orata baked in foil with clams, mussels, and short, flat pasta (think fettuccine, the length of penne). The fish was flaky and moist, surrounded by flavorful mollusks and toothsome pasta.
Then we walked. But that’s not as easy as it sounds. Two-wheeled vehicles are everywhere you want to be. They must be classified as pedestrians … exempt from one-way streets signs or vehicle restrictions. And if that’s not enough, they ride downhill in neutral. I had wondered why the Italian driving manual … which is blank about the blind spot, doesn’t talk about tailgating … talks incessantly, compulsively, repeatedly about not driving downhill in neutral. Now I know why. This! Neutral = no motor sound, no warning. Maybe a beep of the horn, with the intensity of a Roadrunner cartoon.
As the sun went down, we found ourselves in the spacious Piazza Del Plebiscito. Then around, along, up some streets. We were overlooking a busy street … we said we’d find it tomorrow … then meandered toward the hotel.
Since we had a late lunch, we decided that when we found a bakery, we’d buy dessert for later in our room. We happened upon CALEMMA DOLCI MOMENTI on Vico Lungo del Gelso. So many choices. Hard, ring-shaped cookie with almonds (not too sweet, the kind of “European” cookie I love) … pair of butter cookies sandwiching a ½-inch layer of delicate hazelnut cream that oozed with every bite … two butter cookies filled with a schmear of thick, rich pistachio cream … cookie bar topped with dense chocolate-rum cream. A yummy finale to Day 1.
After breakfast, we set out exploring. We wandered toward the coast watching boats come and go, admiring Mt. Vesuvius across the bay … and found our way back toward the “mystery street” from the night before.
We knew we were having a big dinner, so wanted a light lunch. POKÉ HOUSE on Via Chiaia (the mystery street) fit the bill. We shared a big bowl of brown and black rice … salmon, 2 portions of ahi … edamame, mango, 2 helpings of avocado … garbanzos … almonds … all topped with avocado-olive oil dressing. So glad poké has made its way across two oceans.
Dinner was a return to EUROPEO MATTOZZI on Via Marchese Campodisola. It is old-school … tablecloths and elegance. We ate here 8 years ago, and Luisa (the daughter/sister) was our host. Tonight it was the owner, Papa … dapper, gracious, and welcoming, a charming man from a certain generation, wearing a suit and sweater vest.
For our wine, David picked a 2021 Falanghina from Fontana Vecchia. Its balanced minerality and light, white-fruit notes made a perfect pairing with our foods.
We feasted, served on a series of beautiful, colorful, hand-painted plates arriving at our table. Mozzarella … amazing, milky, lactic bliss, slightly chewy. Octopus … tender, sea-full chunks with fluffy potatoes. Great bread. A “raw Margherita” pizza of mozzarella, pachino tomatoes, basil … the small cornice (rim) had subtle char, nice chew, and fabulous flavor, enhanced with classic toppings. Grilled squid … perfect, tender, gently grilled flavor. Escarole … boiled/sautéed, a great vegetale element in our meal, and on top, the B E S T olives we’ve ever eaten, they tasted like little ovals of olive oil.
An incredible meal, but alas, we skipped dessert tonight.
TO BE CONTINUED …
APPLE BUTTER CAKE
3 oz. butter, melted and cooled slightly
1–1/4 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2–¼ cup flour
1–½ tsp. baking powder
2 apples, thinly sliced
- Preheat the oven to 350° F (170° C). Butter and flour a 9-inch round pan.
- In a large bowl, mix sugar and eggs until well blended, then add the melted butter and vanila.
- Stir in the flour and baking powder.
- Pour about ¾ of the batter into the prepared pan.
- Place apple slices in 2 concentric circles on top of the cake.
- Spoon the rest of the batter over some of the slices.
- Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until done.
- Serve warm or at room temperature.
Enjoy!
