ANNIVERSARY IN ORVIETO
We were midway through our anniversary trip, enjoying the energy and eccentricity that is uniquely Naples. And now we were ready for pizza! Nello at Hotel Convento recommended PIZZERIA LAEZZA, a block away on Via Speranzella.
We at on the crowded patio, all the better to watch the scooters whiz by … piled high with several cases of wine or transporting 3 people and a dog or driven by a 10-year-old girl. Our starter was a platter of fried antipasti beloved in the South. Tasty, tender potato croquettes … delicious, rich suppli (cheese-stuffed rice balls) … yummy, crispy fried spaghetti … fried dough, which David enjoyed (a food group I do not like. At all.)
Then, la pièce della resistenza. Pizza with dough from the gods, flavorful and chewy, puffy with air bubbles in the rim, yet a subtle layer under the toppings. Margherita, the ode to tomatoes and mozzarella, with a wink to basil … sausage with friarielli and provola, porkiness melding with bitter greens draped with cheese-y perfection.
As we chatted with the owners/brothers, they brought dessert. A regional classic … pastiera … a cake I knew about, but had never made (or even tasted). The buttery crust had a nice chew that balanced the softened wheat berries and creamy filling, making it a sweet treat. Definitely comfort food.
For our last night in Naples, we were going to the new-to-us location of OSTERIA MATTOZZI on Piazetta Scacchi Archangelo. We were excited to see Fabiana again, who served us amazing fish 8 years before. Tonight we enjoyed a leisurely, wonderful walk, crossing Spaccanapoli along the way.
After hugs and hellos, we let Fabiana be our guide.
Such delicious antipasti. Eggplant parmigiano was ethereal … potato croquettes, melt-in-the-mouth … meatballs, slightly crispy on the outside with tender veal and bread crumbs within … fried zucchini flowers, delicate in a rice flour coating that added a hint of crunch.
Our primi were the same, yet different. Paccheri al pescatore, toothsome pasta rings with flavorful mussels and tender calamari … and mine included delicious shrimp (since David is allergic).
Though we were certainly full, Fabiana enticed us with fried anchovies. So delicious, they needed just a squirt of lemon juice.
Dessert time meant two … again, local classics. Baba au rhum, a huge piece of pandoro/pan di spagna absorbing a generous pour of rum (for David) … pastiera, delicate and not top sweet, so I preferred this slice to the previous version (for me).
As we ate, two musicians came in … one played a mandolin, the other, a guitar. After a few songs, Fabiana joined them. After they left, the singing continued … from Napoletani folk songs to rock ‘n roll. So. Much. Fun.!
David’s shot of limoncello finished our fish feast. We headed back to the hotel, content in our time in Naples.
The next morning, we drove north to Orvieto.
I guess it’s becoming a tradition. We celebrated our 25th anniversary in Orvieto. That year, it was not our original destination … it was supposed to be Napoli, but a car problem forced a detour. You can catch up in my story, PLAN B.
I made a reservation at our fave B&B … ATMOSFERA D’ARTE in centro storico of this hill town. And then a dinner reservation at our fave, TRATTORIA DA CARLO, to celebrate number 28.
We made our obligatory stop for supermarket tourism at the Coop. We bought Umbrian wines and a couple of pasta shapes that the stores in Tuscany don’t have … then made our way up the hill.
We pulled into the gated parking area looking for the springer spaniel, Biscotto. But he was at the beach with his humans. His feline companion Red was there … and introduced us to his new pal, a gray kitty named Nemo. We spoke in low tones … offering the crunchies we always have in our car [smiling emoji] … until a bird caught their eye, and they rushed off. Daniela, Laura’s sister, showed us to our room.
When I make a reservation, Carlo is always gracious … but when we walk in, I realize he hadn’t recognized our names. Note to self: next time, send a photo via WhatsApp.
We sat in the larger, back dining room, settling in with a glass of white wine.
We began with machine-cut prosciutto, and this version has an extra black pepper rubbed into the skin, making it unique and ever so crunchy. We also ordered the local red beans, which are slowly simmered with pork rind with tomatoes … creating one of best bean dishes we’ve tasted, subtle and creamy and rich.
Carlo recommended a red wine from Argillae … his wife’s winery where we have gone for tastings … a 2016 Vascellarus I.G.T. It has great terroire, and nice balance of fruit/earthiness, and excellent with our various foods.
Our primi were two dishes with the local shape … umbrechelli, thick strands similar to Tuscan pici. One was with guanciale, fennel seeds, pecorino … a delicious combination of pork fat rules and light, bright crunch of fennel seeds and local, lightly-aged pecorino. The other was a fan favorite, cacio e pepe … with the added vegetal twist of fava cream.
Carlo selected a big, beautiful bistecca with a generous filet as our secondo … and cooked it to blood rare perfection. With just a traditional dusting of coarse salt, it was tender and juicy. Cannellini beans shared the plate.
Dessert was a luxurious pistachio-ricotta cream … a rich, thick pudding enhanced with the crunchiness of chopped pistachio inside and on top.
The rain had stopped, and we walked back to the B&B, hand in hand, the cobblestones shining in the lamplight.
The next morning we walked around Orvieto already decorated for Christmas. We enjoyed a cappuccino across from the Duomo, and headed home.
The kitties were glad. Us, too.
GNOCCHI WITH MUSHROOMS AND PORCINI
1 lb. gnocchi … homemade with your favorite recipe or purchased
1 clove garlic, minced
Olive oil
¼ cup white wine
2 oz. dried porcini, re-hydrated in hot water … reserve the liquid
4 oz. mushrooms, sliced
Parsley, chopped
- In a frying pan large enough to hold the gnocchi, sauté the garlic in olive oil until just barely tender.
- Add the mushrooms … sauté gently. When soft and starting to get golden, add the wine.
- When the wine is mostly evaporated, add the porcini and the reserved liquid (use a strainer to pour into the pan).
- Simmer slowly.
- Boil the gnocchi in salted water.
- When they float to the top, use a chinese ladle to scoop them from the water directly into the frying pan. Add gnocchi cooking liquid to keep it moist.
- Add chopped parsley … toss.
- Serve.
Enjoy!
